Monday, July 5th was our final full day at Sapibenega. It started with breakfast and rain. It wasn’t raining hard enough, however, to deter us from the long hike we had been saving for today. We felt lucky that we had had two gloriously sunny days previously for the beach and snorkeling. I’m not sure our guide had the same enthusiasm for a rainy hike but he willingly obliged. We headed out in the boat donning rain slickers and hiking boots.

We did not want to miss this hike! We were ready for the rain!

After following the coast of the Kuna Yala Comarrca we found a small delta, and headed up river.

We headed slowly up the tropical river.

When we reached the place where a couple of canoes (hollowed out logs) were tied up we also tied our boat and climbed up the river bank. We hiked a well worn trail where Kuna farmers had cleared out patches for corn, sugar cane, Robusto coffee, and pineapple to name a few crops.

This is a Pineapple Patch. It takes 18 mos. to grow 1 Pineapple!

This rainforest, while similar to our experience at Los Quetzales, was different because it was considered lowland rainforest. In this hike we saw bamboo and mangroves in addition to the palms and other tall tropical trees.

This was a group of bamboo growing along the trail we hiked.

Other highlights of this hike was seeing a whole flock of Toucans and finding a Crocodile hidden along the bank of the river.

Look closely! The crocodiles eyes and nose were pointed towards the bank.

After returning to our cabin and enjoying lunch we got a final boat tour of more of the Kuna’s lovely islands. They are very independent and proud of the islands that make up thier Comarrca (Reservation). Luckily, the Panamanian Government allows them to control and take care of this beautiful place. As a result, they have been able to maintain their traditions and culture (including their own native language) while learning about modern society to make Eco-tourism one more way to earn money for their tribe. We enjoyed a final dinner and sunset that evening.

A beautiful sunset to end our stay on Sapibenega.

On July 6th we woke up early and packed our backpacks. Our Kuna Hosts took us back to the landing strip and we waited for our plane. This flight started out with a couple of pit-stops at similar landing strips down the coast. Bringing mail and supplies. Finally, our plane began heading back in the direction of Panama City. We landed about 9 AM and dropped our packs off at our hotel. We hit the Artisan Markets for some last treasures to help us remember the different cultures we encountered We have so much to share with family, friends, colleagues and, most importantly, our 6th grade students when we get home. We ate dinner on the Causeway over looking the Pacific coast, the city skyline and the bridge marking the entrance to the Panama Canal. I couldn’t help reflecting on the beautiful places and people I encountered on this trip of a lifetime. I learned so much as I was immersed in this culture… and I learned a little about myself in the process. What an incredible experience! Many thanks go to Fund For Teachers and the Malakai Foundation who funded our grant. I hope they will continue to help teachers travel so they can bring similar experiences to their students.

Saturday morning started early! We boarded a 12 seat air craft at 6 AM. Along with our luggage we watched the airport officials put boxes of supplies, fruits, and pouches of mail in the cargo hold. Then it was an hour flight to the San Blas Islands. There was a point during the flight where we could see the Pacific coast as well as the Caribean Coast. The lush green of the tropical landscape combined with the turquoise, crystal-clear water will be a permanent memory in my brain. We landed at the Kuna “air port” at about 7:00AM. When I say airport I really mean a paved landing strip with a small cement block building no larger than about 10 ft. by 10 ft. In place of security were smiling school children who walk right by the airport to get to their school. As we stepped off the plane we were met by Iguada, our Sapibenega host. He grabbed our backpacks and walked us to his boat (Tethered to the dock not 25 ft. from where we landed!). After a short ride we got off on the Sapibenega Island, put our stuff in our cabin and enjoyed a delightful breakfast in a gazebo over the water.

This was our cabin over the water at Sapibenega.

When the conch shell was blown, we gathered here for meals.

Our first adventure started about 9:30 when we boarded the boat with a few other guests and ventured to another deserted island covered in coconut trees and glistening white coral beaches. We snorkeled here until lunch at 2:00. Snorkeling was an adventure because of the coral reefs surrounding the island. This coral was much more diverse than Coiba, but the sea life was much smaller. Because these islands are populated and heavily fished, we did not see the diversity we enjoyed on Coiba. It was spectacular none the less. In the afternoon we were treated to the Kuna tribe’s native dances set to the music of their bamboo flutes. Their joyful music and dancing put everyone in high spirits.

Kuna Dancers in traditional clothing, dancing to their bamboo flute.

As we prepared for dinner, around 8:00 PM Iguada began pulling on a fishing line he had strung earlier in the day. He pulled strenuously for a good 10 minutes. At last he heaved a large fish onto the wooden floor of our dining hall. The large fish turned out to be a young Hammerhead Shark. As he held it up proudly I’m sure he could not comprehend our surprise and amazement. As we admired the fish he told us that it was too young to keep and he did release it back into sparkling water as our dinner of lobster and crab was served. July 4th started out much the same as yesterday with breakfast and more snorkeling. Today, however, we ventured to yet another coconut covered island. (The Kuna people make the majority of their living selling their coconut crop to the Columbians, where there is a processing plant.) Wrasse, rays, parrotfish, and a lone bull shark along with many bright red starfish made up the majority of the sea life we encountered. Today was different in that in the afternoon we traveled into one of the Kuna villages on the island closest to our air strip. Our guide showed us around the thatched-roof huts situated closely together. In the space between, people were selling Molas (their traditional handicraft) and coconut jewlery. The children came up smiling wanting to take a picture with you (But you had to be careful because they charged a dollar for each picture they were in!). Their culture is so different from my own but it was clear that there were similarities as well. Watching how they interacted with their friends and family, really brought home the fact that regardless of culture us humans have the same priorities when it comes to loved ones. Our second day ended with a lovely dinner of coconut rice, crab and veggetables. Of course, fresh pineapple and watermelon made our dessert.

July 1 we woke up on Coiba Island and boarded our Ferry as the tide was going out.  On the trip home we enjoyed a spectacular dolphin show right beside our boat!  We stopped the boat and watched as the dolphins jumped high in the air and swam around our boat.  What an adventure!  On our journey back we were also joined by flying fish.  All the entertainment made the two hour journey go fast.  From Malena we boarded a very small public bus.  In Panama No bus is ever too crowded!  It was definitely a cultural experience.  We encountered uniformed school children, ranchers, educated business people and elderly folks.  Once we were in Santiago we looked for a hotel.  We only had cold showers and the few groceries we brought with us on Coiba.  So a hot shower and restaurant food was a priority.  The Air conditioning helped all of our moods!!!  On July 2nd we ate breakfast as we watched Holland beat the brilliant Brazillians in the World Cup soccer match and then we set out to find a Panamanian Artisan who makes dolls dressed in all of the different indigenous tribal clothing.  After making a purchase we headed to the bus station for a 4 hour trip back to Panama City.  We wrapped up our day with a fabulous meal at Los Bovidas.  They had the biggest shrimp (Langostina) I have ever seen!!  Tomorrow we will be flying to San Blas Islands to visit the Kuna People.  The excitement just keeps going!!

Dolls representing indigenous cultures.

On June 29 We woke up early in Santiago and taxied an hour to Punta Malena. Here we met Tomas, our Coiba Island guide. We went from the rainforest paradise to a tropical island paradise!!

Hike in La Amistad National Park

The Ferry for our two hour ride to Coiba Island

Taking in the Beauty of Coiba Island

We woke up early and taxied for an hour to Punta Malena where we met Tomas, our Coiba guide.  We then boarded our ferry for a two hour ride in the Pacific to get to the island.  The beginning of the ride was a bit rough but our driver wan an expert at getting through the breaking waves.  From then on the ride was fantastic.  You can’t help but realize how small you are in the midst of that great ocean.  When we arrived on the island it took my breath away!  We threw on our swim suits and grabbed our snorkling gear. Tomas took us to a prime snorkling spot and we jumped into the clearest blue water I’ve ever seen!  I was surprised at how relaxed I felt snorkling since this was the first time I’d ever used the gear.  We were able to see many many colorful tropical fish.  I was about 2 arm lengths away from a Green Sea Turtle.  We also saw Eagle rays, Electric Rays, a Nurse Shark and several White Tipped Reef Sharks.  I was too amazed to be scared!  The coral was not as spectacular as I had imagined because a few years ago El Nino (Unusually warm ocean currents) killed  lots of coral around the island.  Since coral grows about a centimeter per year it has lots of growing left to do to be completely restored.  In addition to snorkling, the second day we hiked to a geothermal springs.  On our hike we saw many different sea birds as well as Howler and Cappuccin Monkeys.  As we made our way through the mangrove trees we kept an eye out for salt water Cocodrillos (crocodiles).  There was one that came ashore right near our cabin!  He was HUGE!!!  Our final excursion on the island was to tour the prison.  It operated between 1920 and 2004.  It is now operated by National Park Rangers.  The buildings are seriously dilapidated because of the intense weathering salt water causes.  We sailed back to Malena the morning of July 1st.

The Cell we are in held 15 to 20 prisoners!

Hola Everyone! Today Nathan, Mrs. Wittstruck and I woke up in the rainforest, hiked back to Guadalupe and then took a bus to David. We ate a traditional Panamanian lunch and then watched the Chile vs. Brazil soccer match. It really allowed us to soak in the local culture and “people watch”. Our final leg of the journey today was to take a second bus ride from David to Santiago. This was about a 3 hour ride. We had an excellent seafood dinner tonight and will be preparing for our hour long ferry ride to Coiba Island early tomorrow morning. Although I have lots more pictures of the rainforest to share, you’ll have to wait until we get home for those. I promise I’ll put lots of pics of Coiba in my next blog. Hopefully, that edition will come Thursday evening or possibly Friday because there is no internet on the island!
Buenas Noches!!

This morning I woke up in my round, treehouse-like cabin (cabana) with windows on all 7 sides overlooking the canopy of the rainforest. Tiny humming birds darted between the exotic flowers and the feeder hanging by the window. Yesterday we took an hour hike around our cabin. Thank goodness we had a guide! The trail was steep and treacherous in places. We crossed over a river several times. Though it was shallow at the crossing it was running pretty fast and rocks are covered in moss which makes them really slick. Before we got to the cabin we experienced a spanish grocery store and a fruit market where we purchased supplies for supper and breakfast. You can see the pictures below.

Bridges are a good thing!

Morning view of the Rainforest from our treehouse perch.

Fruit fresh from the field-5 cent bananas

This morning we flew to David. We decided to take a 1 hour flight as opposed to an 8 hour bus ride. Once in David we taxied another hour up into the mountain town of Guadalupe. This is the farming area and 80% of the fruits, vegetables and coffee are grown here due to the fertile volcanic soil. The flora and fauna is diverse and beautiful! I could tell we were in the RAIN forest because our taxi ride was through a thunderstorm. Even after we got to our hotel (Los Qetzales) it has continued to rain. After all, we are here during the rainy season, or to us, winter. Because it was raining we sat in the lodge and played boardgames and listened to the rain. It seems pretty amazing that teachers from Lincoln could go from spending time in a 1.3 million metropolis one day and the very next day on the edge of a rainforest! What an adventure. Tomorrow the journey continues further into the rainforest. We will go to a cabin higher up in the forest for a guided hike and birding. We will be able to many different birds (including quetzals) and plants. We will be there for two nights and sadly there is no internet. Hopefully, I can blog when we get back from this cabin.

Miss Burkey and Mrs. Wittstruck at the Mira Flores Locks

Breakfast at Los Quetzales Lodge

Today Mrs. Wittstruck and I walked and taxied around Panama City. We were lucky enough to have Nate Wittstruck as our personal guide, navigator and translator. Thanks to his knowledge of this country we were able to see some incredible artisans and fun aspects of the city. Our first stop was the Mira Flores Locks on the Panama Canal. After touring the museum and watching a video we actually saw several boats pass through the canal. Then it was on to Casco Viejo. This this the “old” part of the city. There were some wonderful old buildings and churches. Our final destinations took us to artisan fairs where we were serenaded by some local musicians.

Walking through Artisan Fairs Making Friends